Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Acid Wash, Soul Slinger, Last Dance + More!

Well, since my last post, I've taken 2 trips to Bishop and ticked several "projects". The first to go down was Last Dance (V9). This problem is in the Happies right next to Rave and Weekender. The beta I used for this is not how the guide book describes. All the moves were static for me and most people seem to use a left sidepull and dyno for the jug. I always try to avoid dynos or big moves if I can. Here's the beta:

Next up is Buttermilk Stem Sit Start (V4). The guidebook claims that this problem is "rarely onsighted". I would say that's probably quite accurate. For the longest time, I could not figure out how to do the sit start to this problem and I've never seen anyone do it either! Well, finally someone posted a video of it online and I got inspired to try it again. The move is awkward, but after a few attempts, I got the hang of it and sent it within a few goes.

I've worked on Soul Slinger (V9) for a few trips now, and by worked, I mean made like 3 attempts and complained that it tore my skin up and gave up. Well, this time, it only took 2 goes. The first go, I got to the last gaston crimp (for the first time) and fell. The 2nd go, I sent.

Acid Wash (V10) was the last project I sent. I've probably played on it for a handful of trips, but only seriously worked on it during the past 2 trips after I actually did all the moves. Not sure if it's an "easy 10" as some people would say, but it's definitely easier if you're tall. I don't think I made it look easy either.

After Acid Wash, I wanted to try something new, so we went to the Get Carter boulder and tried Get Carter (V7). This problem probably doesn't get as much traffic as its neighbor Seven Spanish Angels (V6), but it's pretty good in my opinion. At first, it felt really hard and I couldn't even do it on the first day, but I came back the next day and sent it within a few goes. The crux is definitely the first few moves and the key beta is a left drop knee and a right heel hook. I chickened out of the direct top out and traversed right to the easy top out. I hate slabs!

A bunch of us also played on Professional Widow (V4). I decided to be a jerk and climb it in my sandals. Actually, I had no intention on sending it in my sandals as I didn't think I could do it. I was just trying to warm up and it just happened. This problem is probably one of my favorites in Bishop and possibly the best V4 I've ever done.
Me on Professional Widow (V4).
Well, I think I've had my Bishop fix for a while now. I decided that I'm going to take a good break from this area. So I probably won't go back until it warms up, maybe Feb or March. I have Red Rocks and Joshua Tree coming up during the holidays though!